Mittwoch, 26. Dezember 2007
Christmas in Germany
I needn't have worried about Christmas cheer being spoiled by premature product pushing though, because Germany's Christmas markets produce enough genuine cheer to overcome it all. The celebration begins on the First Advent, the first Sunday in December. Cozy little huts with food, mulled wine (Glühwein), and handmade gifts pop up on every Platz and free space in the city. Marion (the woman who gave me a place to stay in my first weeks in Berlin, and who has become a dear friend) took me to the best markets around. I contemplated bringing my camera, but saw that the battery was nearly dead, and decided it wasn't worth it. A bad decision, which I did not repeat on subsequent market trips. The first market we went to was quite beautiful and not nearly as kitschy as some in touristy parts of Berlin. It was at a farm here in town. It was pretty amazing to see a farm surrounded by the city, but of course it was quite necessary before the fall of the wall, since West Berlin had difficult access to fresh food as the surrounding agricultural countryside was off limits to them.
The second place we went to was a dirt cheap second-had market. There I found a few really fantastic things, which were particularly special because of their uncertain origins. I was feeling a little more clear headed as we went to the third market, which was clearly in a very nice area (as was the first). Large villas surrounded the church. The market was populated with cheerful, well dressed people, the booths filled with expensive artisan wares and charity organizations promoting their causes. I started watching the people and saw so many fascinating things going on all around. There was a beautiful young woman with doe eyes, working a booth for a group to prevent violence against foreign women. She was selling little lottery tickets for the items on the table. She held up her little basket, with red tickets up to an older man, looking up at him with bright enticing eyes. Beautiful. I started seeing things like this everywhere and hated that I did not have my camera.
Finally at the last place we went, a shiny black case caught my eye. In it was a pristine Super 8 movie camera, complete with all the accessories and papers, even the receipt, which showed that it was purchased at an Airport in Nakaku, Yokohama, Japan by one Martha Damröse of Berlin on the 12th of April, 1970. It was perfect and I walked away with it for 5 euros. My mind is busy working on ideas far more concrete than any I've had in a long time. My mind is quite occupied by new ways to tell a story with different sorts of images. Now I just need to search out the story I want to tell.
Mittwoch, 5. Dezember 2007
Brücken bauen - Building Bridges
It was likely to be the most popular section for obvious reasons.
So the day before yesterday I'm taking a moment to relax before heading out to the conference opening. I get a call from the Embassy. My expert won't be able to make it, could I give fill in for the expert on the panel as well? Huh!? Seriously? Me fill in for the rockin' Hip-Hop PhD? It seemed absurd. I asked her to call me back in an hour so that I could have a chance to think and see if I could put something together. I reluctantly accepted, a bit panicked. I wrote something up off the top of my head, and went to the kick-off. At the kick-off there were tons of people from the Embassy. It was almost impossible to hear who was American and who was German because their "American" was so good, only the names sometimes gave it away. I mentioned that I was interesting in filmmaking and photography, and pretty soon people were asking me for more information, and saying they know someone that they could talk to for me. No promises, but they would ask this producer they know, or this guy working for the Berliner Filmfest, or whatever. It's pretty incredible how connections like that work. I mean, the only reason I was at the Embassy thing was that I had done a presentation for some teachers a while back, and one of them had a wife who worked for the Embassy. He was impressed and recommended Sam and me. Connections. So know I'm actually going to have to email these people and remind them of their offers to help. You never know.
It was near impossible to get anyone to talk to me about the position I was supposed to fill on the "Expert" panel. The only people I could get to actually look at the thing I had prepared were two interns. They gave me positive feedback, and I went home to sleep on it. Yesterday was the actual conference. It's all kind of a blur now, but I sort of felt like I rock star when I finally got up, sat at the panel and did my thing. All the organizers knew that I was a stand-in, and didn't have terribly high expectations (which is part of the reason I agreed to do it). I gave my intro confidently, (I was the first one to go!) and felt that I was pretty well in the flow. I got a couple of tough questions, something to the effect of "Who should be responsible for creating a more inclusive national identity? The governments?"(to which I replied that the governments need to leave space for changing identities, validate this change, and encourage organic formation of identity, but mostly they should stay out of it and give families support to find and help their children find their place in their nation.) And "With all this diversity and loose definition of National Identity, how can a nation foster unity and patriotism." I have to admit this one took me off guard a little, as I consider patriotism in the sense that the government uses it to be dangerous and harmful. I stumbled a bit, but basically said that when you make people feel accepted by their society, they will fill a sort of unity no matter where they come from. At the end of the panel discussion two more questions came back to the issue of National Identity. Essentially the kids said that they had a hard time finding their identity because it is constantly being imposed on them from the outside. Essentially, they were constantly battling against the perceptions of Germany as a Nazi state. I told them that I as an American could relate to this, often being written off by people before I even opened my mouth as an imperialist, warmongering, rabid consumer. I told them that they have the power to change all that. That such perceptions cannot stand in the face of personal contact. That every time they meet someone outside of Germany, they can and will destroy these ideas. They can show by dealing with the past, that they have considered and dealt with the Nazi past better than anyone. They can show themselves for the ultimate anti-fascist people that they have become. It may not be a world-wide solution, but just by going abroad and meeting and talking to people, they can open the minds of countless people. They loved this. Spontaneous applause several times. I felt great having the chance to make these kids feel empowered. To show them their power.
The break-out session was incredible. They were talkative, critical, and totally engaged. I asked who would represent the group, and this boy, Franklin (half Kenyan-half German), who I had noticed in the panel discussion already as an incredibly positive and powerful kid, volunteered. By the end of a really energized discussion, I asked them if they might want to put down their thoughts in Rhyme form, since we'd spent most of the time talking about music and global youth identity. I said that they could show Washington why these things matter, why it's worth spending money to bring them together, to show DC what they were capable of. They were up for it. They broke into groups and wrote Rhymes, which ended up being amazing. All in less than an hour! They were so upset when we had to end. They wanted to keep working. I'm going to try to scan all their rhymes, so that maybe they can keep working, so that they can show Washington. Franklin came up to me at the end and with such admiration thanked me for being such a great teacher. I was speechless because he was the one who was impressive from my point of view.
I'm still in a bit of a daze from it all.
Freitag, 16. November 2007
An Argument for Optimism
I realized yesterday, that I haven't yet written about my neighbors, one of whom is my closest friend here in Berlin. This occurred to me yesterday evening as I was perched irresponsibly on the book carrying rack on the back of Patricia's bike cruising (if you could call our wobbly, stilted progress that) down the street towards Karl-Marx Allee. The cold, damp, sunless onset of winter, combined with the wear and tear of living in a foreign country had been grating on our nerves a bit. We discussed this as we sat drinking tea in her perpetually smoky kitchen talking about what we could do to take the edge off the winter/being foreign blues. I admitted that at the drug store the other day I bought a sock knitting kit on impulse. I had stared at the thing in my hand, and decided that I really had little chance of actually finishing a functioning pair of socks like those promised by the picture, despite the pledge on the front that the instructions included were "easy" and "for beginners." Fully conscious of this, I decided to buy it anyway. At the very least the rush I got from throwing down six euros impulsively for a project that I will probably never bring to fruition would make the purchase worth it. Ah the cheap thrills of retail therapy...
Patricia then suggesting taking up painting. It helped me last time I was living abroad, so I told her I was game. She then looked at me sideways, kind of giggled, and said, "hey, I've got this crazy idea. But, if you're not game just say so. It's kind of stupid, but I've always kind of wanted to do it." I was intrigued. "You wanna go for a bike ride?" The two of us? On your bike? I asked. "Yeah, my bike's got this basket-rack thing on the back." I think back to all the times I've seen kids on the verge of inflicting serious harm on themselves due to such antics. I watch them coolly, but at the same time envying a little bit their stupid fun. So there I was, riding side saddle on her thin wire book rack, hopping off every few minutes when I would hear the wheel starting to singe my coat. It was fabulous. A feeling I don't often get anymore, and appreciate all the more because of its rarity. Stupid fun.
We both felt a lot better by the time we stumbled laughing back up to her apartment. I stayed for dinner at her place, where her Italian roommate's friend Elisa was cooking up pasta. I asked Patricia what she had planned for Thanksgiving. She shrugged. Thanksgiving for Patrica has never been the traditional turkey-centric holiday of my family. Her parents moved from Brazil to the US, where Patrica was born, and consequently prefers traditional Brazilian food for their Thanksgiving celebrations. Her roommates were interested and insisted that we should make dinner. They asked what Thanksgiving was all about. I explained that it was similar to their harvest fest in fall, but more historically unique and significant. I explained that it celebrated the feast the pilgrims and Native Americans shared after the pilgrims had their first successful harvest with the help of the Wampanoags. And then they piped up "You mean, before they killed them all?" Hmm... somehow I don't think they got the idea. (I'd also like to point out here that while the settlers were quite good at the killing, their Native American contemporaries did not just lie around waiting to be killed. They were very able warriors themselves, not the naive innocents that such a comment implies. Particularly our Wampanoag friends.)
Their glib comment made me want to go find out more about the actual historical background of Thanksgiving. According to journal entries made by the pilgrims at the Plymouth settlement in Massachusetts, the first Thanksgiving actually did happen. It was a three day celebration in 1621 to which the Pilgrim's invited the Wampanoag people, who had helped them to survive their first winter and plant their first successful harvest. The pilgrims provided most of the food, and the Wampanoags contributed 5 deer. It was actually a very hopeful moment in American history, one that should remind us to strive always for peace. We should not forget the injustices of the past, but if we neglect to celebrate the beautiful and hopeful moments, how can we strive for a better present and future. If the past is reduced to a series of massacres, then how can we have any hope of making a better present for ourselves? How can you hold on to the drive to make things better without the belief that something better exists?
Growing up means realizing that adults are not inherently better people, that their wisdom and benevolence does not always increase proportionally to their years. When growing up our understanding of self and surrounding develop so quickly and steadily that it seems like time will inevitably continue to elucidate the world. At some point though time ceases to increase understanding as before, and experience begins to chip away at hope. I'm beginning to realize that intelligent optimism is very hard to hold on to, that it is much easier to become cynical, hardened, and hopeless. I want to continue to celebrate the things in life that feed hope. It is not easy though. Bad things in life are notoriously good at subjugating the value of the good. If we let it, one hurtful word will carry more significance than 100 loving gestures. Today in an effort to salvage this optimism, and give the good in life its proper place, I chose to find out the true story Thanksgiving.
And now I am going to knit myself a pair of socks.
Dienstag, 6. November 2007
Back and Boxing
In addition to my regular school day and preparation for tomorrow's presentation, I went to boxing today. This was my second go around at the University boxing gym where I will be training this year. The class was quite full, and this time there was even another woman there, who was new to boxing, but very experienced in Karate. She's quite tough, and not at all arrogant. I like her. The guy who stepped in for the main trainer was quite the opposite, and managed to tick me off in good order. He was clearly just another student who had done some box, but he was quite interested in criticizing me on some almost insulting points. He talked to me like I was an idiot. He might have mistaken my blank look for a lack of intelligence. My blank look was rather born of my absolute disinterest in his opinion. I felt a little guilty for being so cool, so I explained to him that I was from the US and had yet to learn box jargon auf deutsch. He responded with a very heavy accent "Next time we can speak English then." This sealed the deal for me.
After a bit of observation, I think perhaps the disproportionate criticism I'm receiving may be due to the Germans having a different box style. I'm not sure about this yet, but it would explain why this guy only criticized things that I know I learned right, and not the things I'm actually interesting in improving. I must say, the gym is certainly a different style than I'm accustomed to. I've never boxed in a fancy, or particularly modern gym, rather the equipment is usually sparse and well worn, but relatively up to date. This gym makes me think of my great grandfather George's boxing gloves that are hanging in our basement at home: Old and puffy, but still in good shape. I half expect this guy to walk through the door at any moment:
The workouts are quite intense, and long. It is hard to box for 90 minutes. I'm used to 45 minute sessions, and even then at the end I'm totally kaput. At least we didn't have to jump for 15 minutes straight this time. The backs of my legs were covered by stripy welts by the time that little warm-up was done. I've decided that I'm a bit clumsy when it comes to jump-roping. Little did I imagine in elementary school while I jumped rope during recess, that I would be doing it 15 years later as a boxer. I suppose if someone had told me then, I wouldn't have been all that surprised. I might have just tried to get a little better at it so that years later I wouldn't have so many welts burnt into the backs of my legs.
Samstag, 27. Oktober 2007
A Brief Hiatus
I have much to tell, so stay tuned, I'll be back soon enough!
Samstag, 13. Oktober 2007
The Kindness of Strangers
My room has been transformed from a big empty space with a bed into a real living space by the kindness of strangers. Today one of the teachers at the school and her husband invited me to their home for coffee and cake (the German equivalent of afternoon tea and biscuits), and then brought me across town to my apartment with a trunk filled with wonderful things for my room. Before Grit (my teaching mentor, yes, her name is Grit, as in short for MarGRIT) told me that Helga Rosenbaum had some things for my room she'd like to give me, I don't think I had even heard her name. Not only did she have some things for me, I was informed, but she had offered to bring them to my apartment and pick them up at the end of the year. My jaw dropped when I heard all this. I recently bought a couple rugs for my room in an effort to make things look warmer and more homey, but they kind of just ended up looking silly: two bright patches floating in the emptyness of my room.
Sonntag, 7. Oktober 2007
The Land of Pilsner
The one thing I never expected to be missing here, is beer. I thought I was coming to the land of beer. Oooohh, they do have large quantities of it to be sure. The bottles are all .5 L, about one and a half of our beers. In the back of the stores you see what seems to be a very impressive selection of beer. I was excited the first time I saw those rows of crates filled with big bottles for 60 cents a piece. Then I started searching to my favorite varieties, lager, ale, reds, blonds, porters, stouts... I saw Pils, pilsner, pils, pils, pils, pilsner.... on and on, with a few dark beers crowded into small corners. So many rows of beer, such an apparent abundance of variety! Oh the disappointment. Germany is not the land of beer as I was lead to believe, it is the land of Pilsners! Not that I don't enjoy a good Pilsner from time to time, but sometimes I just want more.
I've asked around a bit, and have searched on the internet to try to find a store with a better beer selection. I have always been met with stony replies of "what, you don't like our beer? Our beer is the best. This is Germany! World famous for beer and wurst!" The variety of wurst here is much more impressive than that of beer. I even found on the internet a gentleman in Bavaria looking for a beer store which sells Belgian ales, and one of the responses was "German brewers would never allow for such a thing to enter our land. And I agree with them!" Wow. The poor guy was just looking for a little variety, you know, the spice of life? Oh well, at least they've got lots of wine from other countries. This may not be my year for beer, I'm afraid.
Well, my cookies seem to have come out alright against all odds. The roommates are raving.
Donnerstag, 20. September 2007
Personhood and Politics
One of the classes I assisted in today was a large group in their 12th year. The whole hour was dedicated to them asking me questions about myself, my country, and my impressions of Berlin and Germany. I recognized some of the kids from other groups. Consistently there are a few kids who are brave enough to ask most of the questions, while the rest are quiet listening. Up to this point I've been surprised not to have entertained many political questions. Actually, there has only been one thus far: "What do you think of Bush?" I offered a diplomatic, but also clearly unfavorable response. They actually clapped when I said that I had never been a Bush supporter and was happy to be able to voice my opinion in the last election.
Other than that, politics have been surprisingly absent. When I commented on this to Günter - the 64 year-old husband of Marion, the couple I'm currently staying with - he says probably because they feel so hopelessly impotent in a political system that doesn't care about them, they have lost interest in politics. Somehow I think this is oversimplifying the matter. I think politics, and especially the idea of America, fills and surrounds their bi-cultural lives. I prefer to take their lack of desire to interrogate me on the politics of my country as a sign that they can separate a person from the government under which they live.
This was particularly clear when one of the boys asked me the highly political, but also deeply personal question, "Where were you on 9-11?" I told them that I was in Mexico. I felt the interest of the students peak. I told them how I found out, at first thinking it was a misguided joke of my prank-loving Mexican friends. I told them how it dawned on me that this might not be a joke, and how I felt when I wandered into the international students lounge just in time to see the second tower fall. I told them how alone I felt, how I felt light years away from home, loved ones, and compatriots. As I finished my abbreviated tale of that day, I geared up for the inevitable political follow up questions about the war, and our bellicose leader. None came. A moment of silence followed my little story, and the weight of it lifted. Then came the more questions, about school, teachers, and daily life in the U.S. For some reason this made an impression on me. I was a person, not a flag, a symbol for all the good and bad actions of my government. It was very humane. Or maybe they were just scared to ask the questions they really wanted to ask. It's hard to know.
Mittwoch, 19. September 2007
Classroom (Mis)Adventures
So, here I am IN BERLIN! My new hometown in Germany. It's quite a town. The public transportation is so good, that you can get anywhere in a half hour. It's so good that one of the other kids in the program said she's not getting enough exercise because there is a train stop close to everything. I've also got a high school ID, which means I can ride all public transport for 26 euro instead of 90. It's totally illegal and kind of ridiculous, because I'm 23, but I'm not complaining!
I just got a room in an apartment lined up. It has been very stressful being homeless. I'm staying with a very nice older couple, who have been very good to me. My living situation has actually been pretty good, just very temporary. I went mushroom picking with them last weekend in the area around Berlin. Berlin is strange. There are no burbs, it's just city city, then bam, you're in the woods. Very different from good All-American urban sprawl. It might have something to do with the whole Walled City thing that happened not so long ago. Anyway, I like it.
I had my first solo lesson today (which I'm not technically supposed to do, but they needed someone.) It wasn't too bad. It only took me about 15 minutes to make someone cry. That's a new record for me. So, I went into it having no idea about their English abilities. All the other groups so far have been older, and really good at English. These kids were 8th graders, and didn't understand much of anything. I tried to talk very slowly and do lots of pantomiming. I wanted them to interview each other, I gave them a list of questions, name, place of birth, hobbies, etc. Then I wanted them to introduce their partners, so I could get to know them too. So, some understood this. I went around to each group and tried to help. It was hard because I couldn't use German to explain. I am not supposed to. So, some still didn't get it. I saw one group with all kinds of answers written down, they seemed to get it so I asked if they might want to show the others. The one girl said yes. So I had them get up. The other girl was all confused. She was just supposed to sit there while her partner introduced her, but apparently she didn't understand a word of the whole thing. Her partner had written down her answers, as well as her own. So the girl was all confused, didn't understand what I wanted her to do (which was actually nothing), and she started to cry! Man, What could be worse? I felt terrible! The was a teacher on call who came to help. Meanwhile, the rest of the class is getting riled up. Keep in mind, these are not nice, rich, little prep school kids. This is a tough school. (See picture above - The accompanying article from last May tells of a knife fight in which a kid got seriously hurt) 76% of the kids in school grew up speaking a language other than German. There are kids from just about every country you can imagine in class, all trying to get along. So, when things starting going down hill, I knew the potential for total chaos to break out. I told them to quiet down, and singled out one girl who totally ignored me and seemed to be some sort of leader. I was a little worked up, but I kept my voice calm, and I told her that she had to respect me. Somehow she seemed to get that. Anyway, she chilled out and so did the rest of them. She actually then volunteered to go first. She introduced her partner, and did a good job, and he did the same. Everyone laughed a bit, even the girl who had been crying. And from there on thing went a bit better. Damn, there were a few moments there, where I though hell was going to break loose. Now at least I know there abilities, and I can do things for them that will be more appropriate for there level. Damn it's hard to teach a language you never had to learn yourself. I wish I were teaching Spanish, then at least I would know what it's like to sit on the other side. I think the next lesson will be tear free. It was really intense, I must say..
So, now that I've rattled off that long tale of classroom misadventures, I will sign off for the time being. I've got to get to bed, tomorrow is another school day.